Travel, experience, conserve with
Walks Worldwide Jump to main menu

Walking in the Olive-lined Tracks of The Durrells

Since it was established in 2001, the Corfu Trail has become regarded as a challenging and highly rewarding walking destination. The perfect months to walk the 220km trail are May, June, September and October, when the days are cooler and the air is clear.

Walks Worldwide’s Estelle and a good friend just returned from walking the trail. They followed a 7-day taster itinerary made up from sections of our 10 & 15 day Corfu Trail suggested itineraries.

We started the trail at the southernmost tip of Corfu, on the outskirts of Asprokavos, Corfu’s infamous 18-30s destination. An unusual setting for the start of our wilderness adventure perhaps? But as we set off, the bars and nightclubs are soon behind us as we ramble down rural tracks and quickly come upon a tranquil lake harbouring terrapins, brightly coloured frogs, majestic shrikes and a blur of swallows plucking flies from the air above.

Pressing on, as we cross from the west to the east of the island we’re quickly engulfed by picturesque olive groves. It makes us think about what culinary delights await us for our evening meals. It certainly doesn’t help improve the flavour of our dry trail mix! Olives are intermittently replaced by oranges. The aroma from the orange blossom sweetens our breath as we descend to the historic city of Lefkimmi for our first lunch stop, at a riverside taverna.

Refuelled, we head back to the west of the island, spending the next couple of hours traversing the valley of the Gardeno River, and enjoying the beautiful wildflowers that seemed to accompany us along the whole of the Corfu Trail.  The day’s walking ends with a rocky descent down to the long golden beach of Santa Barbara.

After a good night’s sleep we continue north, hugging the west coast for the majority of the day. A two kilometre stretch of sand invites us to take off our walking boots, periodically cooling our feet in the gentle waters. As the sands of Agios Georgios beach come to an end, we head into the sand dunes and at their summit we spy the beautiful Lake Korission for the first time. Lake Korission is Corfu’s biggest saltwater lake, with a thin strip of land seperating it from the Ionian Sea. The lakeside section of the walk passes quickly as we look out for the brightly coloured flamingos.

Later that evening we were dazzled by fireflies at our hilside apartment, in the quiet vilage of Paramonas. Paramonas’ friendly locals make us feel very welcome, sharing the delicious produce from their well-tended allotments.

From here, the real work of the trail begins as we climb to Agi Deka, the second highest peak in Corfu. Efforts here are rewarded with fantastic views towards the south, giving a great perspective of the distance already covered. Ascents and descents are broken up by picturesque villages offering refreshment. The freshly squeezed orange and lemon juices are particularly welcome.

Our next day’s walking leads us through a variety of landscapes and vistas, starting with a half hour walk down to one of the island’s many beautiful beaches – Myrtiotissa beach. Our walk continues up to the small village of Vatos overlooking the Ropa Valley and the agricultural fields of Corfu. Descending once more, the valley offers a period of level walking and a chance for us to recuperate before a steep climb to the old village of Giannades. Olive grove after olive grove finally gives way to the breath-taking cliffs and coastline at Liapades, where we cool our feet before locating our overnight accommodation.

Revitalised after a good night’s sleep and tasty breakfast of Greek yoghurt, honey and fruits, we make an early start from Liapades. We follow the trail up a steep headland on a narrow, rocky path with trees all around us. Climbing a small, easily-scaled ladder along the way, we quickly make our way through the shady forest, enjoying the cool fresh air, excited about the expected views at the top of the climb. It doesn’t disappoint. We are rewarded with stunning views across the bays and beaches surrounding Paleokastritsa – with turquoise waters and cliffs clad in green. Parking the intended schedule for now, we indulge with orange juice and fresh almond cookies from an irresistible little bakery, perched high on the cliff. For the rest of the day, we follow a well-worn track as it zig-zags it’s way along the coast with a cliff high above us and the shoreline down below. The views are stunning.

The last day of the walk ends on a real high. Ascending from Spartillas, another start point, the trail takes you up the road leading to Corfu’s highest summit: Pantokrator Mountain, some 908 meters above sea level. Should you opt to climb to the summit you can visit the Monastery of Pantokrator, as well as indulge in the island’s best panoramic views. Following a ridge, the narrow trail descends towards a semi-abandoned village. The last stretch follows a rough mule track through the dense forest and past a couple more villages. Almiros beach greets you at the bottom of the trail, but there is a little more to do. The last section periodically hugs the coastline before turning towards the final destination at Corfu’s northern tip; the welcoming sandy beach of Agios Spiridon and the adjacent Lake Antiniotissa, which was featured in Gerald Durrell’s book My Family and Other Animals.

Our final night is spent at Kalami, a picturesque small cove nestled beneath green cliffs with a white pebble beach, turquoise water and a handful of tavernas serving delicious food: the perfect place to relax and reminisce about the trail. The village is also home to the famous ‘white house’ which is one of the houses the Durrell family lived in whilst in Corfu. The house is now home to a lovely taverna and restaurant. Time allowing, another beautiful 15 kilometre loop walk can be made from Kalami, or you may choose to have a day or two of well-earned rest and relaxation!

Inspired? Let us take you to Corfu